![]() The Wires are the same but you are missing the Black Ground in your harness so you need to add a chassis ground to the black lead off the connector after swapping the pins. On early 84 models that had the 2 pin Power Transistor you will need to swap over the later style connector. This is the only change needed to the harness. Now to swap the Black wire with the Green/white wire. You need to remove this black housing clip to be able to pull the wires out. You do not interact with the seals or poke them at all. All you need to do back here is to be able to see the seals. You must first remove the black housing clip on the back of the z31 harness grey connector to expose the seals on the back of the wires. The procedure is simple and I have outlined it below. The issue with the newer PRW-2 is that there are two wires that have been flipped, or two contacts that need to be swapped on the Z31 harness. The PRW-2 is not exactly pug and play but close. NISSAN MAXIMA (1989 - 1994) - Located near the Distributor on a bracket.NISSANĚLTIMA (1993 - 1997) - Located under the Airbox.It can be found on a number of Distributor equipped Nissans. ![]() It is the transistor that charges/discharges the Ignition Coil. This guide pertains to the following item, it has a number of names: I will be posting a Video on our Youtube Channel in shortly and link it here in the coming weeks as I have a customer car (1985 300zx 2+2) that is getting a VG33ET swapped in and will use this upgrade. This Modification can also be used on the S130 as well using the method with the 2 wire unit. So I was told to re-ground my MAF since its "floating in the air" (custom intake) and I did but still bogs like no other, not really a bog, but more like TONS of fuel.So this one is a pretty simple modification for a more reliable spark for your Z31. I had the hood open and had 1 hand on the MAF, and one hand on I think the TB, and I revved the motor up, and got ZAPPED, freaking electricity (HIGH voltage) went through my body, i couldnt feel my arms for over 5 mins, the higher the engine rpms went the more the MAF zapped me, wtf is that all about? I bought 6 NGK V-power resistor type spark plugs, im i guess going to keep the gap the same?īy the way, I bought and installed a new bosch 02 sensor like previously stated, and now my idle is ROCK SOLID and the "bogging" decreased by like 20% but it still bogs up to the point now that if im in 2nd gear lets say at 3k rpms driving, and I go 30mph (cruising), and I go WOT (wide open) the engine is creating ZERO whp, its actually DE-celerating, the rpms go down and its giving off the "im getting ZERO fuel and only air" sound, another way to do this is to be driving and take ur key out (engine off but still spinning) and try to throttle it with it off but spinning (vehicle is moving) its just the "air sucking in to the motor and in to the cylinders" sound, its the EXACT same thing. Another thing, if im cruising, lets say in 4th at 40mph (2000 rpms), and i downshift to 2nd (now at 4000 rpms), and go WOT it takes like 1 second of bogging down (sounds like to much fuel?) and then the motor will "clear out" and run perfect, wtf is going on?ġ986 Nissan 300zx NON TURBO 5 speed VG30E. Thats Quicktime format (from my cell phone)Īnyways, whenever i go wot or engine is either under or not under load, it feels like its running SUPER rich, it cuts out on me, and lets say im at a stop light and go WOT in nuetral, the motor takes a few seconds to get to 6k, in between idle and 6k it runs like it has a little bit of water in the cylinders (an example), its really weird, it feels like as if its dumping WAY to much fuel in to the motor and the plugs cant fire the incoming fuel or something?Īnyways if you keep it WOT in nuetral or driving long enough, the motor will "clear out" and will run perfect if kept at WOT. Hey guys, first off all, I made a video, to show whats wrong:
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